Monday, September 3, 2007

What a weekend

Well we had a very wonderful weekend in Tokaj ( pronounced toak eye). It is one of the famous wine growing regions of Hungary, and like other wine growing areas we have visited in other places, is very civilized. clean streets, small scale to towns, well kept homes, constant atmosphere of party, lots of places to stay and to eat. Our first stop was at the home of Erzos mother, who lived in the town. she had an ample lunch of leszo, salads, bread, and palinka ( local liquor, drunk before breakfast, and then at many opportunites thoughout the day). Down the street from her house was a tall tower with a stork nest on top. up from her house was the town square, with a statue, wine museum, and quiet little shops. Erzos brother Willy, a business management professor in another town, and her uncle Fere, a horticultural professor, joined us. one of uncle feres students ran a winery in the area, and agreed to give us a visit, even though he does not normally do that.

The vineyard was extensive, and the fruit hung heavy on the vines. where we visited it was all white grapes. after inspecting the plants we went down down into the wine cellar. apparently the tokaj wine needs several things found only here, which is what makes it different from other wines. the requirements are
grapes that require the longer than usual summer they get in this area
the moisture from the nearby river which floods in the spring and keeps the land moist all summer
the yeast/fungus (bactrytus???)that grows only in this area and has a symbiotic relationship with the wine
a fermentation and aging process that depends on the presence of oygen.
the caves where the wine is aged and the yeast thrives

When we visited the wine cellar this yeast was very obvious - on the walls, on the floor, on the barrells, on the bottles. it is white and fuzzy while it is alive, and black once it dies.

The museum in Tokaj showed the various varieties of grapes that are here, none of which have names even similar to those in germany or south africa, and there were about 60 of them. The museum also showed the code of conduct that vinters must adhere to, which includes hospitality, so as to maintain the reputation of the region.

Supper that night was at a wine tavern, and consisted of potatoe pancakes and salad, a dish popular in this region, especially since it is close to the slovakian border, and this type of pancake is essentially slovakian food.

We stayed at a little pension that night ($40) and had a breakfast of omelet, meats. breads etc at erzos mums place, then off to see a prőtestant school, a exhibit about saint elizabeth of hungary, and a fort.

That night was a party back at ester and atillas, grilled chicken, vegetable skewers ,mediterrranean salad, lovely eggplant dip, potatoes, and creamed corn and peas, with the last of esters birthday cake for dessert. and lots of beer, wine and palinka

we are off shortly ro go to sumeg, a tourist town about 3 hours from here. katis sister marjke has a tourist attractiion based on riding and hunting with horses.

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